Alaska 2010

Another Alpine Climbing Trip to Alaska

Jeff McCarthy and I decided to take another stab at alpine climbing in the Ruth Glacier region of Denali National Park. The objectives were the Moose's Tooth via the Ham and Eggs couloir (V, 5.9, WI4) and maybe the west face couloir on Mt. Huntington. It depended upon conditions, ambition and our frail middle-aged bodies. We again flew to Anchorage, went overland to Talkeetna and jumped on a glacier plane provided by Talkeetna Air Taxi. All in all, it was less than 24 hours from SLC to the Root Canal landing strip below the Moose's Tooth. Pretty impressive!

Jeff is psyched about being airborne again!

The instrument panel of our DeHaviland Otter aircraft

We flew by the Broken Tooth on our way in. I think this is one of the coolest looking mountains in the world. When you see it, you say, "Let's go climbing!"

This is the route: The Ham and Eggs couloir. Super-classic and very big and impressive in person. The crux is in the middle. Once you hit the col at the top, you head right for 5 to 6 more pitches of snow and ice climbing. It's a long route!

Getting comfy in our deluxe camp at the Root Canal.

A chilly morning during our three-day wait for good climbing conditions.

Maybe not a good day to go climbing. But a good day to curl up with a thick book. My book of choice was Anna Karenina by Leo Tolstoy, which hit the spot.

We retreated to a nearby snow cave during the storms in order to cook and eat in style and luxury. Or at least luxury.

Eventually the storms passed, the couloir was flushed of new snow and conditions were right to climb. We were feeling strong and uber-psyched. We decided to go light and fast, with Jeff carrying a small pack and leading the harder pitches and me carrying the larger pack and leading the blocks of more moderate terrain. All in all, a good plan that worked pretty well.

Here's Jeff staring up the first pitch, a tough 5.7 rock pitch with crappy pro. Felt harder than that! After this picture, my camera malfunctioned and I didn't take any others. Too bad, as there were some spectacular moments.

A belay high on the climb

A deceivingly tough pitch right after the crux. Vertical, rotten ice guarded the exit, with limited mobility to swing due to the wall on the right. Magnifico!

When we hit the summit ridge, the surrounding peaks, including Denali, were bathed in blue-black light, contrasted with the shimmering white glaciers. It was probably one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. The top of the Moose's Tooth dropped away into oblivion on all sides. Incredible.

We summited about 8PM and began our descent into a brewing storm. Spindrift avalanches buffeted us almost all the way down, and we overtook another party near the bottom, which slowed us down further. But we were able to work through it, and were soon back in camp. All in all, a great day in the mountains.

Hydrating the day after the climb. We needed a lot of rest after our 22-hour effort the previous day.

After Ham and Eggs, we decided to get a hop flight to the Kahiltna Glacier due to poor conditions on Mt. Huntington. From the Kahiltna, you can access many classic climbs such as the Moonflower Buttress, Mini-Moonflower, Mt. Frances and the Kahiltna Queen. We decided to try the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Frances (IV, 5.8, snow 60 degrees).

Our excellent camp on the Kahiltna. The Ritz-Carlton has nothing on this place.

Mt. Hunter rises above the Buccaneer.

The Southwest Ridge of Mt. Frances rises up from left to right, passing several towers and gendarmes along the way.

All racked up with someplace to go.

The start of the route. Tower One, here we come! This is about 5.7, with great rock and fun climbing. Tower 2 was a little easier, but a little more complex from a route-finding point of view. A party had been part way up the route a few days before, which made the snow sections easy to figure out. Just follow the track.

Up higher on a snowy ridge.

We bailed about halfway when we ran up against a foot of sugar snow over very steep, insecure mixed ground. To continue would have been suicide, and slow suicide at that. We carefully down-climbed and rappelled the route, getting back to the tent about 12 hours after starting up.

Jeff having a snack on the way down on top of Tower 1.

We went back to the Kahiltna to face a mounting storm the next day. After a long discussion, and figuring out that almost all other alpine objectives in the area, except for super-hard ones, were either out of shape or super dangerous, we decided to fly out. We were disappointed, but knew we had captured two excellent days of climbing, ones we won't soon forget. We ran into many friends either at the airstrip or in Talkeetna, making the trip an even bigger success.

As we always say, "We'll be back!"

Russell vs. Mt. Whitney

Every August Russ and I go road-tripping in California. Last year was a week-long backpack trip in the Sierras. This year we had our hearts set on a surfing junket, but were shut down by poor waves throughout the southwest. Sooo.....since the waves sucked we steered the 'Ho westward from Las Vegas, across Death Valley, and, you guessed it, back to the Sierras!

Our thought was to climb the East Buttress of Whitney, and if not, have a fun time trying.

At Lone Pine we obtained a permit and headed up to Lower Boy Scout lake. Only 6,000 vertical feet to go!

Here's us ready to head out from Whitney Portal

Our awesome campsite at Lower Boy Scout lake

Full of beans at 6 AM....You can't keep a good dude down!

Hiking up the granite slabs toward the base of Mt. Whitney early in the morning. The small waterfalls and alpine surroundings make this a very special place

All racked up at the base of the East Buttress route. Having fun yet, Russ?

At the belay of the he first pitch. A great position. From here, we decided to bail to the Mountaineer's Route. It just wasn't in the cards for Russ that day....

After about 5 hours of hiking and climbing, we stood at the highest point of the lower 48. Congratulations, Russ!

At the top

Russ back at camp, completely cooked after a long day

Time for another Carl's Junior Six-Dollar Guacamole Burger!!!

Ice Is Nice And Will Suffice

Swinging the Tools

Debbie mentioned she wanted to learn to ice climb this winter, so being a dutiful husband, I jumped at the chance.  There is a great moderate climb in Little Cottonwood Canyon called the "Great White Icicle," always perfect for having a pleasant outing.  We practiced one day on the lower pitches in January, then picked an un-crowded Tuesday morning in February to go to the top.  Yahooo!

All racked up with someplace to go.

Cruising the money part of the third pitch.  She's a natural!

At the belay

Starting the curtain on the last pitch.

The couple that swings together stays together.

A Sawtooth Story

Viva las Sawtooths!

After our August 2008 attempt to climb Mt. Rainier ended in rain and fog one mile from the Visitor's Center, Debbie and I were looking for something dry and fun to do.  Scouring the weather map of the western U.S. we saw central Idaho was going to miss the storm, and pointed the truck in that direction.  We spent a night in Boise, bought a guidebook, and headed to Stanley the next day. The Sawtooth mountain range reared up on the western side of the road like an angry rodent.  Just our style.  We started our trip, a popular loop hike to Toxaway Lake, at the Pettit Lake trailhead.  

Deb at the trailhead, happy to be warm and dry after Mt. Rainier

Hard to get lost around here.  

Cruising up the trail toward Toxaway.  This is a beautiful hike, with wonderful meadows, stream crossings and lakes.

Good to be back in the mountains.

At camp, Debbie mysteriously found "Rattie" in her pack.  We had to welcome him to the trip in our own unique way.

The fishing in Toxaway was pretty good despite the image the lake's name conjures up.

Sunset on Toxaway

Off we go the next morning, ready to hit Snowyside Pass.  We got an early start, and had the entire area to ourselves.

Approaching Snowyside Pass, a wind tunnel that perfectly funneled cold air on to our sweaty bodies.  Bbbbrrrrr!

The view from the top of Snowyside Pass toward Twin Lakes and Snowyside Peak.

Indian paintbrush along the trail

After a few miles of beautiful, pleasant hiking we arrived at Alice Lake.  We ate lunch by its side, wishing we had more time to spend here.  It seemed like an overnight trip didn't do the place justice, but we know we'll be back.

Into the Heart of the Sierras

In the middle of August 2008, my son Russell and I travelled through the best scenery and terrain the Sierra Nevada mountain range had to offer.  We did a loop trip outside of Bishop, CA from North Lake to South Lake, going out over Piute Pass and back over Bishop Pass.  We traveled through Darwin Canyon, Evolution Valley and Dusy Basin along the way.

We were joined on the first two days of our five day trip by John "JB" Burnstrom, my uncle, who set a wonderful, joyous tone to the journey.

Along the way, as you will see, there were incredible sights: big mountains, blue sky, clear water, colorful trout, green meadows, and lots and lots of rocks.  

The trip was one for the books, a perfect journey in a perfect setting.  We were indeed fortuante to spend time in the mountains John Muir called the "Range of Light."

We started at North Lake, bound for Piute Pass.

Los Tres Amigos at the start

With his earphones on and the iPod at full blast, Russ shot ahead on the trail. When we finally caught up to him 2 hours later, we took a short lunch break at a place hidden out of the wind.

JB about a mile and half away from Piute Pass, the low point in the horizon.  That old Kelty pack just keeps on trucking, as does JB.

After the pass, we cut cross-country over to Muriel Lake.  It was incredibly windy, but not that cold.

JB, with cocktail, and Mt. Humphries in the background.

The next day, when the wind died down, Russ and I had a great afternoon fishing in Muriel.  We caught these Rainbow trout and ate them for dinner.  

JB hanging out at the campsite.

Toasting our last night together.  JB showed us how to enjoy the backcountry "old school" style.

Alpenglow on the peaks behind Muriel Lake.

Yo, Russ, what's with the shades? Are you a movie star?

The next day JB went back to Bishop back over Piute Pass. Russ and I headed out cross-country over Alpine Col, a rarely taken short cut to Darwin Canyon and Evolution Valley.  This is the lake just north of Alpine Col.  The going got really rough after here, with lots of tricky boulder hopping.

The last few yards before topping out at 12,000' Alpine Col.  Russ was a real trooper, doing battle with the boulders like a rabid marmot.

Lawrence of Arabia, I'm not.  But it sure felt good to get to the top of that thing.

The view on the other side of Alpine Col.  This is an unnamed lake that guards the entrance into Darwin Canyon.

Skirting around the far side of the lake, finally free of the swarm of mosquitoes we encountered there, the terrain started to open up.  We were pretty beat at this point, but still had a mile or two to go to Darwin Canyon.

Entering the Shangra-La of Darwin Canyon.  We found an incredibly scenic and little-used platform for our camp, and saw nobody else.  In staying there, one gets the impression the canyon has been almost untouched for hundreds of years.

The next day we descended lower Darwin Canyon to the Evolution Canyon area.  The peaks in the background are on the western edge of EC.  The weather remained perfect.  We knew we would run into lots of people on the John Muir Trail through Evolution, so we savored our last few minutes in Darwin.

Lunch stop in Evolution Canyon.  The area is characterized by gentle elevation gain, a string of crystal lakes, and stunning scenery.

Guarding the southern end of Evolution Canyon is 12,000' Muir Pass.  This hut was constructed by the Sierra Club for shelter during storms while crossing the pass. 

Loving it!

The plaque inside the Muir Pass hut.

After Muir Pass, we motored for quite a while.  When we got to Big Pete Meadow we were lucky enough to find a great campsite near a little lake and waterfall.  

Hey Russ, is that rum in your cup?

Incredible granite walls towered over us as we descended into LeConte Canyon the next day.

When we reached the Bishop Pass turnoff in LeConte Canyon, we started the long, hot hike up and out of there.  There was at least 2000' elevation gain into lower Dusy Basin.  Up and up we went, and were eventually rewarded with this view of LeConte canyon the the King's Canyon divide in the distance:

A tired warrior rests after a long climb.  

We again found great camping in upper Dusy Basin.  I was surprised at the lack of running water there, but I guess it was getting late in the season.

Alpenglow on North Palisade from Dusy Basin.

"Welcome to the Hotel Dusy Basin....such a lovely place..."

The next morning, our last pass.  The sign says it all.

At the top of Bishop Pass.

Heading down off of Bishop Pass, toward South Lake.

Back at the truck at South Lake.  What a great feeling to have completed such a fantastic trip in good style.

Can you say Carl's Jr. Six-Dollar Guacamole Burger????

I was fortunate to have two great traveling companions: JB and Russ.  To traverse such incredible terrain with two of my favorite people, three generations in all, was quite humbling for me.  I hope Russ will take his son there someday as well.  They can push me in my wheelchair!