The Ruth Gorge 2008

The Ruth Gorge 2008

There are some things in life that just are.

For alpinists, it means climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska.  The legendary routes there inflame the imagination of all climbers.  Within its confines scores of alpinists over generations have tested their mettle, re-defined their perception of commitment and found deeper meaning toward life in general.

In May 2008 Jeff McCarthy and I found out what it was all about.   We went to the Ruth Gorge on a small, humble expedition.  We were searching for adventure, fun and great climbing.  We came back with that, and more.  The Ruth gave us a new viewpoint.  One that included trust between friends, a look deep inside the void, and a joyous appreciation of this thing we call life on earth.

The Talkeetna Air Taxi bunkhouse.  Luckily we got a flight out the day we arrived and didn't have to spend the night there.

Psyched!  Jeff with the world's biggest shit-eating grin before takeoff.

Our basecamp at the Mountain House.  It's great to be back in the mountains!

The Mountain House.  A few parties came and went while we were there, but by and large, it was pretty deserted.

Day 2, a bluebird day in the Ruth.  Getting ready for an attempt on Mt. Dan Beard, right across the glacier from the Mountain House.

Low on the route on Mt. Dan Beard.  Swinging tools never felt so good. The ice wasn't great, but we made do with a solid piece at least every 60 meters! 

Jeff following the traverse over the Mt. Dan Beard col, with big air below.  This wasn't so bad, only very run-out.

The last bit before the col camp.  The scale of the place is truly amazing. 

Jeff in the Bibler at the "gravesite," a trench we dug out in deep snow that kept filling up with spindrift.  At least we were out of the direct wind.  It was cloudy and snowing off and on, not promising for a summit attempt the next day.

It snowed about 4 inches that night, the clouds and wind were increasing, and we decided to bail.  The decent was tricky, with steep, insecure terrain and crappy anchors.  At least we had each other.

Basecamp after the storm.  Anyone have a shovel?

Enjoying the time-honored tradition of hunkering down in the tent.  "The Pillars of the Earth" hit the spot with adventure, violence, and sex.

Getting ready to head up the glacier to Peak 11,300, our next objective.

The north face of Mt. Huntington.  When God invented mountains, this is what he had in mind.  A truly impressive sight.

The southwest ridge of Peak 11,300.  It doesn't look like much here, but is packed with over 4,500 vertical feet of awesome alpine climbing. 

Scoping out the ridge from camp at the base of 11,300.    

Low in the route, starting the first 5.8 rock step.  This part is usually mixed climbing, but we found clean, dry granite.

Higher up the route, Jeff leading another steep rock section.  The granite was beautifully blond and solid, making for rapid progress.  The weather was overcast, but holding.

The "Thin Man's Squeeze," a cool feature just before the first col.  Who the hell first found this thing, anyway?

We kept cruising up "mixed moderate terrain" into the mist.  This is a short 5.8 section below the Grey Rock.

2 PM, brewing up at the Grey Rock bivi site.  Since we were going well, we decided to gun for the top.

More mixed moderate terrain. Heading up toward the Second Col.

Heading out of the Second Col.  It was here our close call occurred.  As you can see, the weather is cloudy, but not too bad.  We're about 3,000' up the route, with several tricky spots and the steep summit snowfields to go.

The top.  2 AM, zero degees.  We were in the tent and brewing up within twenty minutes.  What a day.

Jeff, showing the effects of a hard day.

 

Doug, looking even worse.

The descent.  Iconic scenery and no piece of cake. It took 10 hours and all of our skill and attention to get down.

Herr Professor Doktor Jeffery McCarthy, safely down on the glacier.

Saddle up and move 'em out!  We mushed down the glacier back to the Mountain House for our pick-up.

How to put such a trip into words?  You really can't.  It can only be lived, with the only tangible residues being fragments of memories and a few pictures that don't do it justice.  I've done my best to share it; now it' your turn.